Sunday, 22 September 2019

AIWA AD-F770

AIWA AD-F770 Dual Capstan Cassette Deck

[Latest additions/corrections: 24/9/2019]





I've had this deck since about 1999/2000, but seldom used it. About 3 months ago, I decided to play the machine and after a short while realized that the playback speed and stability were not to standard.

Having replaced the belts, the problem of playback 'wow' effect was still problematic - I thought the issue would have been eliminated, but apparently not.

The default 12DC, 2400rpm, CCW (counter clockwise) motor was ageing so I decided to search the web for a replacement. To reduce a long story to a few sentences - I bought several Mabuchi (originally Japanese?) non-brushless motors. At this point it is worth mentioning that the said motors are available on the internet, but could these be Chinese copies, probably?

Rescuing the pulley from the original AIWA motor (spindle ~2mm), I eventually assembled the whole cassette transport together (difficult job) until success was achieved. The transport now runs fine, with the machine running at the correct speed, subject to less than 1% error.

Mabuchi replacement - notibly smaller than the AIWA original.


Both the new Mabuchi (Chinese copy?) and the original motor have voltage regulators inside, and so it would be quite feasible to repair the olden - perhaps another time?

Motor Speed Calibration
So, how did I achieve calibration?  As I don't have a frequency counter I had to resort to other ways. 

My only route for now was to use my ant-audio.co.uk Reference Tape with a recorded 3000Hz test tone. 


I rigged up the AIWA to playback the tape through the left channel of my amp, and through the right channel a digital reference 3000Hz tone. On playback I listened to both. The two sine waves effectively modulate one-another (ie multiply), and the result produces a beat frequency - the effects of which I can hear. In theory two beat frequencies are produced - the sum and the difference in frequency.

Adjusting the motor speed (via a pot at the motor rear) one can hear the low frequency beat effect speeding up or slowing down. Ideally, the beat frequency should be zero, but I managed to get it to around 1-3 Hz. That's an error of about 3/3000 or 0.1%. Not bad! However, as with motors of this kind, adjustment is very sensitive, and likely to oscillate about the set point within tens of seconds, but as long as the temporary drifts aren't excessive, it shouldn't be an issue. In contrast my Sony TC-K61 has superb speed stability combined with ease of precise adjustment.

Playback Level Calibration 
According to the service manual, playback level trimming is adjusted via SFR203 and SFR204 potentiometers.




My ant-audio.co.uk Reference Tape is modulated at 400Hz, Dolby Level, and after cleaning the pots (Servisol) I examined the traces on the oscilloscope. The service manual suggests 580mV from AIWA's calibration tapes - which I assumed were at Dolby Level too? The oscilloscope below now reads ~3.2 divisions x 500mV/per division = 1600mV peak-to-peak. This equates to a rms value of 0.7071x800mV ~ 566mV .... close enough, in fact < 2.5% error. 

The truth is - playback level at Line Out doesn't have to be very precise, ±5% should be sufficient?, as long as both Right and Left channels are identical to within small margins, say ±0.5db?


Left trace -top, Right trace - bottom.


Peak Meter Calibration
Now that the output was calibrated, what about the meters? - they must read DL at this point. Potentiometers SRF701, 702, and 703 were first cleaned and then adjusted from below DL, and then finally 'resting' and stable on DL.
 
February 2022: Note: adjusting the Left and Right channel meters ca be a little tricky!
 
Turning either Left or Right channel potentiometers can result in the meters swinging from high to low, then back up to high again.  
 
My calibration was carried out by finding the minimum point for each meter, then lowering the that single potentiometer (above in the picture) to indicate below dolby level, then turn each potentiomter for Left and Right so that they indicated dolby level on the meters.
 
I hope that isn't confusing!  ;o) 


Record/Replay Head Azimuth
This I already adjusted a while back, but just to check again, I ran the ant-audio.co.uk Ref Tape through the machine and made any (minute) adjustments. Ideally, both left and right channel sine wave traces should line-up (in phase), and display a maximum amplitude or output.




Record Level Calibration
For a deck that supposedly can self calibrate bias, record levels (ie tape sensitivity), and equilization, I found it strange that I could tweak the internal record levels myself, or at least set the machine to reproduce the same output for the same input, ie 0VU in gives 0VU out, or Dolby Level in gives Dolby Level out after invoking the auto-calibration feature. But it seems this was necessary, as this machine was apparently putting too much record level on the left channel by about 2-3dB for Maxell UR tapes, and others.


There are two potentiometers to help the machine calibrate - they are SFR401, and SFR402 located as shown (bottom right half of the overall board) ...



Amendment (May 2021) ....
 

 

I finally got the F770 to record, and playback 400Hz/1000Hz sine waves to the same level, estimated to be within the region of 0.5dB/1dB, according to the meters. Interestingly, not all tapes were so compliant, which I suspect is down to tape flexibility, the tape pad, and a small amount of head wear! Fast dv/dt transients however, can be a law unto themselves; some +2dB above that recorded.


Much of the calibration work I have done on this deck has not been strickly in accordance with the manual - for one reason, I don't have AIWA's original reference tapes.


Power Supply
There's no doubt that this deck is a good machine, but its circuit layout is complex. The power supply was always getting warm, so I decided to clean the underside of the PS board, and replace three of the regulating electrolytic capacitors which take up less space. Hopefully ensuring better air flow than the previous configuration. 

A red marker labels the replaced capacitors.




*********************************


16/03/2021: 
 
Hello everyone,
 
This page gets more views than any of the other Blog pages, except for the Revox. 
 
So my question to you all is - why are you especially interested in this page for the AD-F770? What problems have you got?
 
I cannot help you individually, but your feedback would help me to identify common issues with the AD-F770.
 
Thanks.

34 comments:

  1. Hi,
    How exactly you doing Peak Meter Calibration?I don't really understand how to connect the voltmeter to the Zener diode.
    Regards,
    Dimitar

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Dimitar,

      I don't know how to connect to the zener diode either!, I am not sure of its exact purpose. The service manual is very poor in my opinion - it doesn't explain *why*.

      To calibrate my meters for dolby level, I used my 400Hz DL reference tape, and turned the potentiometers SRF701 & SRF702 until DL was reached on the meters. I'm not certain what SRF703 is for? - overall variability??? I don't know.

      Regards and thanks Dimitar.

      Delete
  2. Hi James,
    I think I got it :-) Negative end from the multi meter goes to the zener diode ,and positive to TP1/TP2.Did you turn all of the clockwise ? The problem is,that I set the Azimuth with ant-audio.co.uk Reference Tape and now the output levels are really low.I haven't touch anything else but the adjustment screw on the left side of the head,
    Regards,
    Dimitar

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dimitar,
      Of general interest: I used two 10Khz azimuth tapes on my F770, just to *compare* them both - one is ant-audio.co.uk and the other is a ABEX 10Khz tape.

      As I understand, if you use a Dolby level 400Hz reference tape, the meters should read DL, and if not turn the SRF701 and 702 so that they do.

      This bit is important too: If your azimuth tape was recorded at (say) -10dB, or -15dB etc, then you will notice that the meters are *not* accurate. My meters from about -5dB .... -20dB are *not* accurate. Please calibrate your meters using ***only*** a 315/333/400Hz reference tape.

      Regards.
      Eric.

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  3. Hi Eric,
    I have U04103-70A - "Combined" Test cassette from Alex/A.N.T,and there's 400hz signal in the tape. So this us the only reference cassette I have. Maybe it's a silly question but what DL mean?
    Regards,
    Dimitar

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    Replies
    1. Hi Dimitar,

      DL = Dolby Level, I just abbreviated. :o)

      I also have this "combined" tape, I did think about getting a 400Hz-only tape, maybe I will buy this some day?

      If you playback the 400Hz tone at Dolby Level, adjust SRF701 and SRF702 until the meters rest on Dolby Level. I'm not sure what SRF703 is used for? I can only make guesses.

      So far everything works well for me. My F770 records and plays back accurately: 0VU in = 0VU out, Dolby Level in = Dolby Level out etc.

      My F770 is not the only recorder that is not very accurate at *low* record/playback levels, ie -20,-15,even at -10dB etc. I would take much notice of these.

      For 10Khz azimuth: Have you got an oscilloscope? - this is the best method.
      If not, a volt meter that can read 10Khz will help - turn the azimuth screw for *maximum* output. You can also hear the tone getting louder - but take care with your ears! It's not good to listen to strong high frequency content.

      Hope this helps.
      Regards
      Eric.

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    2. Correction: "I *wouldn't* take much notice of these".

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  4. Hi Eric,
    I manage to adjust the azimuth on all my three decks. I have oscilloscope for computer and I don't know how accurate is,dut my decks sound equal now. How exactly you doing the adjustment? So without turning any pots I measured the voltage at TP1/TP2 and it's 1.7v on both chanels. But it's not clear wich pot to adjust after that first. I have to do my other deck Sony tc-k75 as well🤔
    Regards
    Dimitar

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Dimitar,

      When turning the azimuth slowly (both anti-clockwise and clockwise), you will see a peak in the amplitude of the 10Khz sine wave. At this point aim for *zero* phase difference between left and right channels. I'm sure you have done this anyway! ;o)
      All my decks are now aligned and sounding good!

      Eric.

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    2. I need to write an article on general peak meter accuracy - will have to do some research first! ;o)
      Best regards
      Eric.

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    3. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  5. Hi James,
    The azimuth is as good as it gets👍 I'm struggling with the rest of the adjustments for both decks(The Sony as well) . Maybe I should look for someone who can do it for me. I'm planning to replace some of the capacitors, especially those on the power supply.
    By the way I think we are members of the same group in FB Blank Cassette Tapes🙂
    Regards
    Dimitar

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, I'm in a few facebook cassette groups. 👍

      Delete
  6. So, my interest in this page? I bought mine as a birthday treat in 1983, and soon realised I'd bought a winner. However, after a period, the voltage regulator started getting so hot that its solder joints were always failing, and the auto-calibration settings were no longer preserved after power-down. Now resolved to sorting it, so searching for accounts of similar experiences.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Did you fix the problem?

      Modern capacitors are smaller and so may help with airflow? I have also thought about drilling more holes at the base to increase airflow.

      It has been a while since I last used my 770 that I've almost forgotten how it looks underneath - maybe I should look again? I've spent too much time on other inferior decks! ;o)

      regards.

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  7. Hi, thanks for the interesting blog. I have the same deck, but completely black. I get the adjusted right channel recording level from the trimmer (503), but what is the number or location of the left channel level trimmer. Trimmers divided by the arrow do not change the level of the left channel. Regards, Asko

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Asko,

      It's been a long time since I last used the F770, but I do recall that the Left Channel level adjustment is inside that hole as shown. The trimmer is actually *on the board below*.

      Your black F770 version seems to be a more recent version, so maybe the trimmers are not exactly in the same places?, I don't know.

      Best wishes.

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    2. Have a look at the updated picture above.

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  8. Thank you very much, now I understand😀.

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  9. I'm visiting because I just got an (allegedly just serviced) F770. I'm inclined to believe it *was * just serviced, based on the 3 Q-tips still sitting in the machine, and belts that appear to be new. But I was also questioning the quality of the service job, based on the aforementioned Q-tips, and the fact that the deck was running *incredibly* slow. I managed to get the speed adjusted about as good as I can (it really is very sensitive. Best I could do was brute force measurement: playing a few songs on a few commercial tapes, and comparing to a digital playback of the song. I eventually got it to where it could get through a full song w/out falling behind or speeding ahead. I was wondering if it could be a bad motor, so I'll run a few hours through it and see if the speed remains consistent).

    Now I'm just worried about the general quality of everything, as I want this deck perfect. I know a decent amount but am far from an expert. Came here because there's a wealth of info. I suppose right now my biggest concerns are speed/stability (motor?) and figuring out if my head is in decent shape (it's a bizarre head, so I'm struggling to tell. It appears clean, I don't see any tape-path sized wear, but I'm not too sure. May be a little pit on the head, and the blue (glue?) threw me off but appears to be normal).

    Anyway, still likely going to try and find someone nearby who can service this (techs are hard to find these days. I have one, but based on his work on my Nak, I don't think I'll be bringing any decks back to him).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, the speed adjustment is senstive, I don't like it either!

      If I were to sell any deck, I would make sure ALL the important parts of the deck were working correctly 100%. There are too many 'experts' out there who think changing the belts is all that needs to be done - not so! Old decks like your F770 has many components, all of which age slowly - this is why I often replace all electrolytic capacitors, and even many of the transistors. The transport mechanics too need to be carefully checked.

      Hope you find a good technician.

      Where are you from?

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    2. Dear, do you know what a problem may be for a not working counter at powering the 770? Deck powers, no counter, no fw/rw, play/rec. Does changing belts affects viewing counter’s 00,00 at powering or it is another part to be replaced? Thank you, and greetings, Ed

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    3. Hello Ed,

      First check to see if the motors are working, do they spin when you press Play, FF, RW? If they do, then you will need new belts.

      Regards.

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    4. Thank you James,

      I’d able to see that inside near end of January, but here is my purchase: seller says have it an year now, had no time to open (don’t know if previous owners did); item powers/no illuminated counter section, no transport. Maybe take a look will help to advise, possible already order 770 belts.

      AIWA AD-F770K sn. 30818104:

      https://www.ebay.de/itm/Tape-Deck-AIWA-AD-F-770-K-Cassette-Deck-sehr-selten-TOP-LESEN-/125075398214?hash=item1d1f131e46%3Ag%3A4CoAAOSwLqthzKdZ&redirect=mobile&nma=true&si=2mXS8Rwmw2Tmg6IzLzI9t1pQHL4%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

      Once thank you, and staying in touch;
      Greetings, Ed

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    5. Hi again James,

      Asked the seller to check if the motors are working, do they spin when pressing Play, FF, RW? If they do, then it need new belts.
      Just got an answer: «Checked again.
      As already described in the auction, no function with Play, FF, RW.
      Motor noise can be heard, right capstan rotates.»

      Good? Go for ordering belts?

      Thank you; greets,
      Ed

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  10. If it were my machine I would order belts. It seems that one belt is not working?

    I wonder - can you hear the second motor run, when you press FF/RW?

    The main motor is for the two capstans, and the other motor is for RW/FF.

    It's been a long time since I looked at my AD-F770, so I also need to check! ;o)

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  11. With hope yours goes all fine;-)

    Thank you, nicely helpful, I’ll check, hear and try to see inside and give then news end of January.
    But what I see from videos, both motors are running from power-up.

    Nice evening; and once many thanks,
    Ed

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  12. Hi James, and hope you’re doing fine.

    Got the 770 / new belts.

    In short (Pictures 1 - 5; can i send/attach pics?)

    Good:

    - Motor runs at powering, with both melted belts.
    (Pressing upper right in cassette holder => red light/metal tape, but no rw/fw function.)


    Bad:

    - Sticky Play button, the other ones looks softer.

    - Source/Monitor switch acts like a push-in only, not as a switch.

    (Inside switch looks not quite right, but can’t see yet how it should be.)

    - In Source mode Record level to max => level looks quite low, to me.

    - 3 color (Red-Rose-White) cable seems disconnected (from headphones?) Phones input death quiet. (Maybe can you check yours where/how to fix it?)

    - And have to fingerpush to eject cassette.

    With hope to get advises from you on above described, i’m going first belts change. Hope new belts would run transport lights/fw/rw, yes?

    (And checking the full great tutorial, i thank you once.)
    Greetings,
    Ed

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For the sticky Play buttons, and other contacts use: Servisol Super 10.
      Please do *not* use WD40 or similar.

      Delete
  13. Greetings from Melbourne, Australia!
    On the verge of purchasing a AD-F770 myself, looked around the net and found this article...for which I am thankful! Please do share more content about this gem of a Cassette deck. Cheers!

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    Replies
    1. I hope you are delighted with your purchase!

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  14. Greetings from Broomfield, CO, US!
    I just bought an Aiwa AD-F770 from shopgoodwill.com , and am awaiting delivery. I had a similar Aiwa deck (don't remember the model number) back in the late 80's in the USAF, and am looking in to what I need to do to tune it up once I receive it.

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    1. Hi, hope you purchase turns out to be a good one.

      I've not done any serious work on my AD-F770 since it's working fine - fixing the motor issue was easy, as was basic calibration. I'll only open it up, if and when it develops serious problems - as the saying gos ... 'if it aint broke, don't fix it!'.

      Regards.

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    2. Just replaced the belts, what a mess the old belts left! She sounds great now. But, what a lot of wires and connections inside! Think it's worth it though. :)

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